Classical Guitar
Professional Performance & Instruction
Christopher Rude, Classical Guitarist
West Salem, WI 54669
ph: 608.498.7761
Chris
Beginning guitarists face many important challenges, but two of the most important are finding the right guitar and finding the right instructor. Some argue that you can learn the guitar on your own, and that's true to some extent. The question is: How hard do you want it to be? Choosing the right guitar can jump-start your technique, but no amount of gadgets, devices, or tricks can help you overcome the frustrations caused by choosing the wrong one. Likewise, there is no book, magazine article or internet site can come close to the effectiveness of a good guitar instructor. Deciding you don't need a teacher or choosing one hastily could cost you your best chance to learn the guitar altogether. Here are some questions that beginners frequently ask when making these decisions.
Size:
The guitar must be properly fitted to the student. As a general rule, the guitar size (1/2, 3/4, etc.) should match the size of the person, relative to a full grown adult. For example, a half size guitar generally suits a ten year old child, whereas a 13 year old may need a 3/4 or even a full size guitar, depending on the height of the child. Most adults will use a "full size" guitar, but this term is not standardized, and some full size guitars have much larger boxes (bodies) which make them more difficult to play for students with shorter limbs.
Style:
I. Classical Guitar (Highly Recommended)
Aka: "Spanish Guitar"; "Nylon-Stringed Acoustic"
Sub-categories: Spanish/German fan; Lattice-braced; Double-top; Flamenco; etc.
The classical guitar is the most versatile type of guitar, and features many design elements conducive to learning. The most important element is the string construction. Classical guitars use steel-wound bass strings with a nylon core, and the treble strings are a filament made of a plastic/nylon composite. Such strings are easy to learn on because they are larger in diameter, and under much less tension than steel strings, making them easier and less painful to fret.
The shape of the classical guitar is another feature that makes it great for beginners. The classical guitar is intended to be played over the elevated left knee, as opposed to the right knee or on a strap. This difference is very important because, perched correctly on the left knee, the classical guitar forms a series of angles and points that relate it perfectly to the human form. These angles and points allow for the proper development of guitar technique. Conversely, putting the same guitar on the right knee completely destroys all these angles and points, causing a long list of bad habits, many of which can become almost unbreakable. Ironically, this is the most widely-ignored fact in guitar instruction.
II. Steel-Stringed Acoustic Guitar (Acceptable)
Aka: "Acoustic Guitar"; "Folk Guitar"
Despite being the most popular beginner instrument by far, the steel-stringed acoustic puts beginners at a considerable disadvantage when compared with the classical guitar. Steel strings are smaller in diameter than nylon, and operate at more than double the tension. This means that the tender flesh on the end of the finger must push twice as hard on a smaller, harder surface area. Not only does this cause more pain, but also requires more effort, which is not ideal for building proper technique. Additionally, the folk guitar is played over the right knee which works counter to the shape of the guitar, and leads to a series of technical challenges. Having said that, the steel-stringed acoustic is at least superior to the last beginner alternative--the electric guitar.
III. Electric Guitar (not recommended)
Sub-categories: "Solid Body"; "Hollow-body" "Semi-Acoustic"; "Lead"; "Rhythm"; etc.
Although the electric guitar is ultimately the easiest style of guitar to play, due to easy initial sound production, it makes the worst beginner instrument for many reasons: First of all, it is not designed to be played in a seated position. The shape of the body provides no right-arm support, leading to myriad bad habits in the right hand, and from a seated position, the body shape will not balance on the knee, initiating an eternal wrestling match. Playing with a strap can help, but only if the strap is adjusted properly. If not, then a new set of problems is introduced. Even with a properly adjusted strap, the instrument tends to fall out of easy position, forcing the left wrist into hyper-extension and/or hyper-supination. These wrist positions are extremely detrimental to the development of reliable left-hand technique.
Construction:
Guitars are made using one of two methods: hand-crafting or manufacturing. The former method involves usually a craftsman called a luthier, and his team who spend up to several months making a guitar from raw materials. As you might imagine, this method is extremely pain-staking, and usually results in very high cost, even this level of effort doesn't guarantee a great sounding instrument.
The latter method is much more common, and although many of the steps are done "by hand", the instrument is still manufactured in the sense that specialization is used to increase efficiency. The product is handed off from worker to worker on a schedule, often regardless of how well any given job has been done. The result is usually lower cost and lower overall quality. Since most guitars are produced this way, the market is flooded with inferior products.
When shopping for a beginner guitar, you won't want to spend much, so you will more than likely end up choosing from the most cheaply made instruments available. If you're going to find the right instrument against these odds, then you need to be very vigilant and patient. Make sure you consider all of the following categories:
Playability:
This is measured by the ease of playing/sustaining notes on the instrument in question. Every guitar plays differently regardless of the process used to create it. Some differences are subtle, while others are easy to discern. Rather than just playing songs on an instrument, one should test every fret on every string for clarity, good tone quality and ease of sustain without any buzzing. Unfortunately, a new guitar--especially an inexpensive one--may have playability issues, so don't assume it is perfect just because it is new. Use the following information as a guide to help determine playability:
The open strings should produce sustained clean ringing with no rattles or buzzes. The thickness of the neck should feel comfortable in the hand of the student, and the right arm should easily reach to the sound hole around the body of the instrument.
A rail-track look down the fretboard should reveal a straight fingerboard surface with no twisting or bowing, and a fairly flat surface created by the metal of the frets themselves. Running the fingers along the neck where the bevels of the metal frets meet the edges of the fingerboard will tell you if the frets have been moving. If your fingers catch on protruding metal, the instrument is suspect. The frets should all line up and appear to be set at exactly the same height. Test every fret on every string for buzzing or dead notes, as these are big red flags.
The action, or distance between the strings and the frets is determined by the height of the bridge and the nut, both of which are adjustable on most guitars. Lower action is easier to play, but quickly exposes imperfections in the fingerboard with buzzes and rattles. Cheaper guitars will often require the action to be raised to compensate for twisting, bowing and moving or poorly set frets. Beware a used guitar with high action, as it may be adjusted high to compensate for fingerboard problems.
Tuning hardware should function smoothly without any grinding or undue resistance, and there should be no play in the tuning keys. The strings should stay in tune while playing (as long as the strings aren't new--they tend to go out of tune more easily). If something appears bent or if hardware doesn't seem to match, you should probably keep looking.
Sound:
Don't be distracted by the appearance of the instrument. The sound and playability of the instrument are far more important than the appearance. Many guitars are made with exotic woods and ornate hardware, which don't necessarily make the instrument sound good. Tone quality, volume and balance are the three most important attributes of a guitar's sound. Many guitars are strong in the bass strings and week in the trebles, but a good guitar balances both, and offers an overall warm tone quality. Have a salesman play the same music on several different guitars and determine their tone qualities for yourself.
Integrity:
This term refers to the build quality and condition of the guitar in question. Especially when buying a used guitar, it is important to inspect the instrument carefully for flaws. A crack in the wood of the body or in the bridge are almost certainly deal breakers, depending on size and location. Also, all glued joints must be inspected for separation. The most common separations occur at the bridge and where the treble end of the fingerboard is attached to the top of the guitar. Also, the tuning hardware and other mechanical or electronic elements should be tested thoroughly to ensure that they work properly.
Make and model:
When buying a new beginner guitar, it is not likely that any of the top brands will be within your price range, so don't worry too much about the make and model. Instead, focus on the playability and the integrity of the instrument, and once you've mastered the basics, you can trade up for something better. Besides, most big brands are mass produced in eastern countries just like the generic ones, so why pay more for their image?
If you are buying a used guitar, the same principles apply, but you should keep in mind that the poorest brands in initial quality will most likely deteriorate the fastest, so be sure to examine any guitar carefully before you buy. Buying a beginner guitar over the internet is not recommended, as there is no way to determine playability or integrity. Besides, the price will probably be inflated to off-set shipping, advertising and commission costs.
Price:
The price of a guitar is not necessarily an indication of its quality. Price is determined by many things including construction method, material costs, hardware quality, origin, brand name, popularity, etc. In fact, some of the best sounding and playing guitars are very humble in appearance, while some of the most visually stunning guitars don't play well or even sound very good. This is not to say that it is impossible to find both in one instrument--just rare. Beginners really shouldn't spend more than $150-$200 for their first instrument, no matter how pretty it looks!
New or used?
There is nothing wrong with a used guitar, as long as it plays well and doesn't have any serious flaws. In fact, used guitars are often better for several reasons: Wood, glue and the joints where they meet have had time to dry and settle, so they aren't as likely to shift, warp and crack as they are on a new guitar. Also, the sound of a guitar is said to "open-up" over time, meaning that the sound actually gets bigger. It's nice if someone else takes care of the instrument for you while that happens, then gives you a discount on the instrument because it's "used". Just make sure you inspect all the joints of the guitar for separation, and make sure there are no cracks in the wood. Minor dents are okay, but make sure they haven't caused a hairline fracture.
Yes, you do. The guitar is easy to play poorly, but almost impossible to play well, a fact which has polarized the guitar world. This explains both the "guitar-God" worship mentality that amateur guitarists apply to professionals and the endless stream of frustrated adult students lined up at my studio door. Save yourself the years of frustration and the ensuing decades of frustration by hiring a good instructor to teach you the fundamentals.
Learning the guitar from a book, magazine or computer screen is only marginally effective. The main problem is one of dimension. Two dimensional media treat the instrument as a two dimensional puzzle: "Put this finger there, and that finger over there, then hit this string". To clarify what is meant, you are referred to a diagram, a picture or a video (all in two dimensions). As in the game of billiards, the real magic that separates the amateurs from the pros is in the third dimension. Only a live, one-on-one lesson can shed light on that all-important third dimension. This is not to say that you can't learn anything from two dimensional media. Certain details and concepts are suitable to such media, and may make an excellent supplement to your studies--just don't rely on them as your only source of training.
The second problem with learning via static forms of media is the fact that you cannot get informed, immediate feedback. As any professional educator knows, immediate feedback is the most important tool in the process of building new skills. Without feedback, you will repeat mistakes again and again, forming habits. These habits become the weak foundation upon which you attempt to build more complex skills, and so on. It is no wonder that self-taught guitarists complain about "hitting a wall". A good guitar instructor can direct you and redirect you. When you don't understand instructions, a teacher can restate the instructions in a way that makes sense to you. What's more, an instructor can motivate you and reward your successes with positive reinforcement, and it's a lot harder to skip a personal lesson that you've paid for than a free one with a computer screen.
A good guitar instructor is hard to find. Unlike violin or piano, the guitar has a very short history as a serious conservatory instrument. While violinists have been refining their techniques and pedagogical resources for centuries, the guitar has had only fifty years or so. As a result, there are no real universal standards among instructors. It follows then, that anyone who plays the guitar well enough can declare himself or herself a guitar instructor. There is no license or official association, and there is no accepted curriculum.
This lack of structure in guitar instruction means that you may study for years with someone who doesn't really understand the instrument at all. This is why it very important to shop for a guitar instructor before you choose. Do not assume the first one you meet is capable of producing good results.
When deciding on a guitar teacher here are some things to look for:
I. Formal education:
Does the teacher have some kind of degree or certification related to music? College music courses provide a background in music theory, history, practical and pedagogical techniques that are essential in a good teacher. If your instructor didn't develop these essential tools in college or at a music conservatory, then where did he get them? Does he have them at all? While formal education doesn't guarantee a good teacher, it is an indicator of depth of knowledge, and that is a boon.
II. Teaching experience:
Over time, teachers develop better and better techniques. They learn to expand on the things that work and leave behind the things that don't. They discover new methods and improve old ones. They learn to anticipate and preempt the development of faulty techniques and understandings. They collect resources, learn to motivate their students and craft raw knowledge into priceless wisdom. Nothing can substitute for teaching experience.
III. Professionalism:
Your instructor should look, behave and communicate like a professional. If he or she doesn't seem organized, then they probably aren't. Remember, you will be trusting and relying on this person, and you have to know that they are responsible enough to handle every facet of the business relationship. Demand more than just someone who knows how to play. A good teacher is much more than that.
10. Right size for student
9. Strings/frets don't buzz or sound dead
8. Neck is not twisted/bowed
7. Bridge is not cracked/lifted/separated
6. Wood is not cracked
5. Hardware is not loose or bent
4. Action is fairly low
3. Glued joints show no signs of separation
2. Guitar top is not sunken/bowed
1. Price is right!
10. Some formal education/degree in music
9. Ample teaching experience
8. Can provide references
7. Uses written policies/agreements
6. Reputable studio/affiliations
5. Engaging personality
4. Articulate and organized
3. Easy to reach/returns calls promptly
2. Offers performance opportunities
1. Consistently challenges you
Copyright 2010 Christopher Rude, Classical Guitarist. All rights reserved.
Christopher Rude, Classical Guitarist
West Salem, WI 54669
ph: 608.498.7761
Chris